Madrid

I am not normally a fan of big cities but central Madrid was different. How can a city have so many beautiful buildings? Yes it was busy, so so many people! Maybe we weren’t coping after our peace of the Camino? Madrid has many wide streets and footpaths as well as the easily navigated alleys of the old town.  Yes it was hot, 37 degrees but with some cloud cover, it certainly wasn’t humid and we coped ok.

As the capital, Madrid is Spains largest city and is rich in history and culture, part of that being the bull fights. We did visit Plaza Del Toro but no bullfights today thank goodness.

Ruthie and I arrived before our tour was to start and we had 2 relaxing exploring days, if there is such a thing. Once our tour began, we had 2 more city tours so we felt we knew Madrid fairly well. After a walk through the peaceful El Retiro park we indulged in the locals food choice – a Calamari Bocadillo. We really enjoyed our time here and were even out after dark. This was something we hadn’t done last week as we were usually asleep before the restaurants opened for dinner! 

Holy Toledo. After leaving Madrid our first stop was Toledo. The former capital of Spain. A very hilly city but beautiful just the same. A local guide showed us around. He bombarded us with a lot of historical information. Usually, my brain shuts down when I’ve hit the absorption limit but this guide was such a comedian it kept me engaged. They are very good at their steel forging craft here so a quick visit to a workshop where a variety of swords and knives were on display.

Moving on we stopped for lunch at a place named Puerto Lapice in the area of La Mancha. This is the home off the fictional Don Quixote with statues of him everywhere. Lunch was even at the actual Taverna mentioned in the book, Venta del Quijote.

Our hotel stop was in Granada. Weary as we were after a full day of travelling, our night wasn’t over. 

A mini bus drove us to a cave, bench seats down both sides and a narrow gap down the middle. Here we were to experience the passion of Zambra dancing. This was the origin of Flamenco dancing performed by a renowned Gypsy clan. Being such a small intimate area, we certainly felt the fire, emotion and heartfelt tradition. It was fabulous and we left with our toes unharmed!

Granada is a university town so a very young population and these days has a bit of a party reputation. However, history also shows it to be a city where 3 different religions were able to co-exist peacefully. Our early morning walking tour was so peaceful as the partying Spaniards aren’t up that early. 

After 2 days in Granada, it was off to the Costa Del Sol on the coast but not before trying their local speciality. A bite size piece of sponge cake called Piononos. It was very light and yummy . Ruthie and I couldn’t wait to get in the ocean. This is where the Mediterranean and Atlantic Oceans meet. The pebbly coarse sand was hot under our feet and the water refreshing. Topped off with beer and tapas, we felt invigorated. I have to mention the tapas, it was called Gambas Al Pil-Pil. The schrimp dish was magnificent and I can’t wait to try to replicate it when home. 

That evening we drove along the Costa Del Sol coast to Malaga in the Andalusia region which has more than 70 golf courses on this sunshine coast of Spain. Our local guide took us up to the Moorish Gilbralfaro fortress for amazing views over the city, the coast and the Sierra Nevada mountain range which was visible in every direction. Malaga is the city where Pablo Picasso was born. Soon we were shown his birth house. Then we got to sample Picasso’s favourite sweet fortified wine at Bodega El Pimpi, his favourite drinking Taverna. The actor, Antonio Banderas, has a house a few doors down and Ruthie was hoping he’d join us. She had to  settle for his autograph on one of the wine barrels.

We were then given some free time to have dinner in one of the many little restaurants. The place was abuzz as it happened to be Patron Saint Day in Malaga. We were on the tail of the procession and the crowds now were packing into the bars. It was very fascinating people watching especially the 2 cheek European kissing which takes an age to greet everyone at a large table. Everyone carries a fan.  Evidently, all the fan waving has a language of its own! Touching the chin, twirling, fanning slowly or fast, even dropping the fan all means something. Who knew? I just thought they were used to keep cool. 

After a 6 day detour to Morocco we have now caught the ferry back to Spain for our last Spanish destination, Seville. What a great city! It’s flat so walking is easy but that can be offset by the heat. It feels like somebody is chasing you with a hairdryer. The people are proud and friendly, it’s clean, historic, great food as well as modern elements. 

Our first stop for the day was Plaza De Espana. Wow! What a town square. Simply stunning. It was built in 1929 for the Ibero- American Exposition. There is a huge Christopher Columbus- Amercian connection in Seville as it is here he sailed off on his great journey and discovered the Americas. Many other countries built colourful pavilions for this expo.

The next stop was the Royal Alcazar, the oldest palace in Spain. Dating back to the 9th century, it has various architectural styles. The Spanish royals still use this palace when in residence in Seville. In fact it was closed to the public for 39 days to host a huge wedding for Princess Elena in 1995 and she is now divorced. 1969’s movie Lawrence of Arabia and some scenes from Game of Thrones were also filmed here, turning this real life palace into the Kingdom of Dorne. 

As it was Ruthies birthday we cooled off with a celebratory drink. A Tinto de Verano is just what we needed.  Translated this is a “red wine of summer” and is a light alternative to Sangria

In the evening we had dinner and a Flamenco show right in the old port of Seville. The Flamenco was more traditional than the gypsy version we had previously experienced. The dancers are classically trained and even included a short piece from the opera Carmen which originated here. The appreciative audience showed enthusiasm with lots of Olé’s. Other famous operas from Seville are Don Giovanni and the Barber of Seville. Dinner included some local varieties of Tapas and surprisingly the spinach and chick pea one was delicious. We also enjoyed a dose of red meat in a slow cooked oxtail dish. Today was a birthday Ruthie wont forget. It had been a big day but Seville didn’t disappoint.

The time has come to leave Spain but we have enjoyed our time here immensely. Perhaps one of my most favourite countries we have visited. It has diverse regions, culturally, geographically and politically. There is so much to see and do but for now I’m embracing siesta time. Spain was Spainsational!