One cool thing about our sail to Ghana was that we crossed the 0 degrees latitude (the equator) and 0 degrees longitude (prime meridian) intersect. That’s a first for us! The prime meridian runs through Greenwich, England and is at 0 degrees longitude and divides the earth into east and west. At the point of our crossing we were zero degrees North, South, East and West.

The equator and Greenwich line meet in a body of water called the Gulf of Guinea and the point is marked by the Null island weather buoy. Very cool!

So, lathered in insect repellent we ventured out after two days at sea. We needed yellow fever vaccinations and malaria tablets for some of our African stops. I was a bit apprehensive taking the shuttle bus to get off the industrial port in Takoradi, Ghana. There were trucks, forklifts and other traffic on the unmade winding road as we bumped our way over railway tracks off the busy port. The bus was meant to drop us at the Circle Market but that changed and they dropped us at a hotel.

The mistake was realised and we were soon on our way to the Circle Market (which was closed).

We had our google maps open and ready for one of our epic walking tours. As soon as we left the port, the realisation set in that we were in the middle of conditions we had only seen from a distance in other ports and we quickly reassessed. The roads were either unmade or full of potholes. Buildings were run down. It didn’t seem much progress had been made since gaining independence from the British in 1957.

As time was limited and walking was not an option, we joined another cruise couple to hire a taxi. In fact, originally we had a tour booked but it was cancelled by the operator who said we didn’t have enough time in port. So off we went crammed into a small beat up Toyota but it had air conditioning and at US$20 an hour we couldn’t complain could we? The tiny car with 5 adults bottomed out on every bump we hit and then we were stopped by the police where some money changed hands. Our driver said if he didn’t pay they would have made trouble for him and he didn’t want trouble! We were really having an adventure!

First stop was the Bisa Aberwa Museum which was symbolic of the people’s rights movement. It also contained artefacts from all over Africa and showcases the contribution of key figures in the country’s history.

Our drive took us right through all the poor living conditions. Water and electricity seemed at a premium. The pet of choice was a goat. However bad the conditions were, the people were friendly, clean and well dressed.

Next was Fort Orange. This is where the slaves were held before transportation. Slavery was abolished in the 1800’s but there is evidence that it continued here until the 1920’s. The fort seemed to be in its original condition which made the walk through eerily uncomfortable. It still operates as a lighthouse. The remnants of the slave trade in Ghana are still visible in dozens of forts and castles built by Europeans between 1482 and 1786.

The fishing wharf at Secondi was an experience I will never forget. As we approached, there were skeletons of wooden boats in various stages of being built. There were groups of people milling around and on boats buying fish. (Sardines were the catch of the day.)

It was so lively, with women carrying their shopping on their heads in baskets and a great insight into this age old Ghanan industry.

All were very friendly. It was a wonderful authentic African experience. Ruthie discreetly gave some coloured pencils to a young boy. His mum was so happy she did a little dance for us.

That all changed when the lady cruiser we were with attempted to give away some toiletries she had collected. The women swamped like seagulls and became quite aggressive. A policewoman had to intervene.

No sooner was that controlled, the men swamped her. I was worried for her safety but she came through the experience unscathed but with possibly higher blood pressure.

Our next stop was at Vienna City Beach and all of a sudden there was a bar, palm trees, an in ground pool and the beach. As I walked further in, a group started waving at us. They were a fellow group of cruisers who were already enjoying this stop. As we do, a local beer was consumed.

There was a market right on the wharf and before we reboarded, we were able to buy some souvenirs without being hassled. I’m sure tourists would buy more if they were left to peruse in peace.

Ghana was meant to be 2 ports of call but Accra (the capital) was cancelled and so Takoradi was our only stop. The Ghana experience may have been different if we did stop twice but we thoroughly enjoyed our off the beaten track adventure and came away feeling we had been immersed in something special.