As we crossed the border from South Australia into the Northern Territory, Ruthies eyes lit up as she saw the 130kph speed limit on the Stuart Highway. There wasn’t a lot to see except that the dirt was looking decidedly redder. The plan was to stop about halfway to Uluru-Ayers Rock and make our way there the following day. That was the plan but instead we kept going to Yulara campground. There were queues of caravans waiting to check-in. After a lengthy wait we ended up setting up in the dark. The nights were still very cold, in fact it was minus 1 this night! I had to queue for my turn in the camp kitchen to fill up our hot water bottles. Everyone was doing the same thing! The camp ground was pitch black which only enhanced the starlit night.

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The next day we drove and partially walked around that monolith known as Uluru and took in all the indigenous stories from the past and enjoyed viewing ancient sacred sites. Some parts had lush greenery and others were quite baron. I assumed they had had a good wet season as wildflowers were abundant. The circumference is 10 kilometres so it’s a bloody big rock. On the way back to camp we detoured to Kata Tjuta – The Olgas. We walked the Valley of the Winds and the views went forever. We partially walked the Walpa Gorge walk but had to turn back as it was getting late and we were weary. Our day had been spectacular.

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The next afternoon, we were taken to a hilly viewing area in readiness for the Field of Lights. The sun was setting on one side and Uluru was changing colours on the other. It was breathtaking. After a few wines and tasty local foods, I think I was starting to get the spiritual feeling of this place. As the dark set in, the Field of Lights came alive. Set in a valley below us and covering the size of 7 football fields, the multicoloured light display was mind blowing. In the artists words, “ it represents an illuminated field of stems that, like the dormant seed in a dry desert, would burst into bloom at dusk with gentle rhythms of light under a blazing blanket of stars.”

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As it happened, the Outback Pioneer Hotel, reopened the same night. It had been closed for 18 months due to COVID. We called in and delighted in celebrating with locals who had their watering hole and jobs back. With the DJ playing tunes, the smiles on their faces said it all.

After packing up it was onwards to Kings Canyon where we walked part of the rim and then the flatter walk along the canyon floor. Again this scenery was different to other outback views we had seen so far. More remarkable scenery as we stopped and walked at Kathleen Springs. That night we stopped and glamped at Kings Creek cattle and camel station. When I say “glamped”, it was a canvas structure containing 2 creaky single beds. The nights were still very cold but at least the tent had a good heater. Ruthie made friends with the resident dingo cross cattle dog, Lola, that had a few scars to show for her time living here. The station exports its camel meat as Australia is seen to be a clean, disease free producer. Yes, we had camel burgers for dinner and they were pretty tasty especially washed down with a couple of beers and conversations with other travellers from all walks of life. Not even the distant sound of dingoes howling or camels groaning could fully wake us from our slumber that night.

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The dry Todd River bed greeted us as we arrived in Alice Springs. Many businesses had full window shutters and yards had razor wire surrounding them. Liquor stores are not open on Sundays and on opening days there are 2 policemen plus security at their entrance checking IDs. There is a high crime rate and alcohol and drug abuse is a major problem. It was once known as the stabbing capital of the world. However, it is well worth visiting and spending time here. We did the touristy things and spent a day visiting Simpsons Gap and Standley Chasm where we did the more challenging walk, which was a bit like mountain climbing but we were well rewarded by the view. The West Macdonnell Ranges offers so much and it’s scenery spectacular. The Old Telegraph station and Anzac Hill couldn’t be missed either. We walked the Olive Pink Botanical Gardens which is full of the local flora and fauna and quite different to any other we have visited. Within the gardens we walked up Annie Meyer’s Hill but did not spy any of the endangered black footed wallabies that live here. We trudged further onto Lasseters Casino where they had a cool cinema room, as well as a cool drink, not to mention being the a location used in a special piece of Australian movie history in Priscilla Queen of the Desert. The UFC was on and I never would have guessed Ruthie was interested in this sport. I have a feeling it was just the eye candy. The Todd Street Mall and markets were well attended. The market is a great outlet of indigenous art and local street entertainment. Despite all the negative first impressions, we came away from Alice Springs understanding how people could come to love it. I’m glad we spent time there.

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